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Ioniq EV Issue - @ Dealer

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12K views 17 replies 9 participants last post by  SEvans  
#1 ·
So I ran into my first issue with the car :(

I have the limited EV with about 10,000km. Last night I had to run out to grab something from the store. I noticed my car was not in it's usual spot. My driveway has a slight incline and I reverse in to plug the car into the 110V outlet. Didn't think much of it, went out came back and parked like usual with the emergency brake on.

This morning I go outside and my car rolled about 8ft down my driveway and was sticking out on the road!!

Seems like there is a electical fault somewhere..

I think it may have started with a local free level two charger. I had plugged in there while shopping. I noticed it wouldn't keep the charge, it would give the icon for the charge time estimation, and then click off. I figured it was just a bad charger. When I turned my car on I had a Check EV (?) Light on, but it went away after I put it in drive.

While I was driving to the next store, the touchscreen dash fully reset itself. Went to a Hyundai logo and stayed there for a few seconds and then went to the main screen that comes on once you turn the car on.

I also noticed that my back up camera after that charge attempt was lagging, or not working at all.

Everything was fine when I got home and plugged into the house, until it kept rolling down my drive way. It ripped the level 1 charge out of the house socket (damaging it)

I brought it in, really hoping they can figure out what has happened here.

Anyone had this experience??

Adam
 
#2 · (Edited)
It seems to have a will of its own. Releasing the parking break by itself is a serious problem.
Sounds like a problem in the control systems, electrical (signal) connections or auxiliary power supplies (12V). Could a problem with the onboard charger have damaged other systems?
Hope they can find the cause, but this can take some time. I never saw this before.
 
#3 ·
Never trust any E-Brake that is electronically operated in ANY electrical vehicle. A loss of electricity may cause an unintentional release of that electrically controlled component. Very unlike a mechanically operated and controlled E-Brake.

I never depend on the E-Brake alone for that reason. I carry a small wooden wedge that I simply slip behind the real wheel when I park on any notable incline.

I know that it sounds 'Mundane' and 'Hokey', but as I back into my driveway, which has a 20 degree incline towards my house, I don't want my Ioniq rolling down and crashing through the doors of my already occupied 1927 house basement garage.
 
#4 ·
I think it may have started with a local free level two charger. I had plugged in there while shopping. I noticed it wouldn't keep the charge, it would give the icon for the charge time estimation, and then click off. I figured it was just a bad charger. When I turned my car on I had a Check EV (?) Light on, but it went away after I put it in drive.
Which charger location was this?
 
#5 ·
I have the limited EV with about 10,000km. Last night I had to run out to grab something from the store. I noticed my car was not in it's usual spot. My driveway has a slight incline and I reverse in to plug the car into the 110V outlet. Didn't think much of it, went out came back and parked like usual with the emergency brake on.

This morning I go outside and my car rolled about 8ft down my driveway and was sticking out on the road!!
Very bad. This seems pretty serious. If this can happen, I would say a major flaw, possible recall stuff. Nothing that can happen unwillingly, like loss of power or any other such simple failure, should ever release the parking brake!

Fortunately, my Ioniq has a parking brake that is locked mechanically. Nothing can release it, except my foot pressing it. Except of course, if this locking mechanic fails hard, but I guess I will be able to detect that something is not right, when engaging it, in the first place.
 
#7 ·
I never was able to charge at the Stone Road Mall location for some reason (even though plugshare shows other people have been able to charge). Haven't experienced the same issues you've encountered afterwards though.

Any updates from the dealer?

BTW I think you test drove my car a while back ;)
 
#10 ·
Told me to watch out for any glitches that I was experiencing (back up camera, touch screen rebooting), obviously if I see that the car is still rolling.

It hasn't yet, have a camera out front running if so.

I still think this had something to do with a level two charger that was malfunctioning. All my issues occured within 12 hours of using the charger. Dash icon came up to (EV Light) etc.
 
#11 · (Edited)
Lets hope it doesn't return. See what happens.

I can't imagine a faulty level-2 charger causing this. The safeties in the onboard charger should have stopped the charging, not disturb the car itself.

Basic thing a level-2 charger does is tell the onboard charger how much power it may draw and switch the power on. Your onboard charger makes some safety checks, engages the high voltage battery system and starts charging the traction battery with the given currentlimit of the charger.

Maybe try out some other level-2 chargers with higher power levels to make sure your onboard charger module is working as it should.

During the charging the auxiliary battery should also be charged and remain at an elevated voltage (about 12.5-14 Volts).

It still sounds like an internal failure or intermittent connection problem somewhere, but it needs to show in order to find it.
 
#12 ·
Oly crap that is a major issue, recall level as one put it. Making me think twice now...hope you can get it diagnosed and fixed. Dealer not being able to replicate the issue can't be all they can do.

The Nissan Leaf base has that parking brake pedal, but that should be safer than an electronic one.
 
#13 ·
This is a very serious problem. In the EV model, if the "gear" selector is set to P, then a locking pin is engaged in the transmission (like an automatic) so rolling is not possible. Additionally, the E-brake is a system that does not require any power to remain active and the friction levels (on mine at least) are aggressive and hold on steep slopes. The E-brake requires power to engage and disengage. In theory, both systems should stay in what every position/state they were left in - indefinitely.

The deduction then, is that both the gear selector and the E-brake were disengaged by the car somehow. This would indicate some sort of software or coding error, or possibly some type of malicious hacking. Does/has anybody else have/had access to your key fob that could give them access to the car.

Lastly, your issue reminded me of an issue my Dad had on his car for a few days one time. It seemed to loose fuel over night (these were the days of carburettors). I remember him doing his nut looking for stuck float valves and leaky hoses the first weekend. The problem went away by itself after a while - I subsequently found out that this was right after my bother's short term GF dumped him. ;-)

Keep us posted, this is something that definitely needs getting to the bottom of.

OB
 
#14 ·
The battery charger has no direct or indirect connection with the brake. State or type of charge cannot affect braking performance.

It's failsafe ON as far as I know.

Monitor for operator error, malicious interference or that pesky inlet actuator which does have access to the brakes and brake pressure..